Showing posts with label Pre-Approval For Louisville Mortgage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pre-Approval For Louisville Mortgage. Show all posts

Kentucky First Time Home Buyer Questions Answered:

What will my mortgage rate be?


We’ll begin with what always seems to be everyone’s number one concern, saving money. Similar to any other monthly payments you’re attempting to negotiate, it depends on a lot of factors. But we can at least clear up a few items to give you an idea of how things will go. Ultimately, the more risk you present to the mortgage lender, the higher your mortgage rate. So, if you have poor credit and come in with a low, down payment, expect a higher interest rate relative to someone with a flawless credit history and a large down payment. The higher interest rate is intended to compensate the lender for the potential of greater risk of a missed payment as data proves those with questionable credit and low down payments are more likely to fall behind on their mortgages. The property itself can also affect mortgage rate pricing – if it’s a condo or multi-unit investment property, expect a higher rate, all else being equal. Then it’s up to you to take the time to shop around, as you would any other important purchase. Two borrowers with identical loan scenarios may receive completely different rates based on shopping alone. And someone worse off on paper could actually obtain a lower rate than a so-called prime borrower simply by taking the time to gather several quotes instead of just one. For the record, a Freddie Mac study proved that home buyers who obtained more than one quote received a lower rate. There is no single answer here, but the more time you put into improving your financial position, shopping different mortgage lenders, and familiarizing yourself with the process so you can effectively negotiate, the better off you’ll be. And of course, you can keep an eye on average mortgage rates to get a ballpark estimate of what’s currently being offered.  To sum it up, compare mortgage rates as you would anything you buy, but consider the fact that you could be paying your mortgage for the next 30 years. So put in even more time!

How long is my mortgage rate good for?


Once you do find that magic mortgage rate, you’ll probably be wondering how long it’s actually good for. If you’re not asking that question, you should be because rates aren’t set in stone unless you specifically ask them to be. By that, we mean locking in the mortgage rate you negotiate or agree upon with the lender so even if rates change from one day to the next, your rate won’t. Otherwise, you’re merely floating your mortgage rate, and thereby taking your chances. Without a rate lock, it’s really just a rate quote.  Lenders will often charge a fee to lock in an interest rate. Rates can generally be locked in for anywhere from 15 to 90 days or longer, with shorter lock periods cheaper than longer ones. But pay attention to the expiration date of your lock, because you will need to close the loan before that date or you will have to renew the lock.



How do you calculate a mortgage payment?


At some point in the mortgage process, you’re going to be searching for a mortgage calculator to figure out your proposed payment.  You can see how monthly payments on mortgage loans are truly calculated using the real math, or you can simply find a payment calculator that does all the work and tells you nothing about how it comes up with the final sum.  Just make sure you use a mortgage calculator that considers the entire housing payment, including taxes, insurance, HOA dues, and so forth. Otherwise, you’re not seeing the complete picture.

What is a mortgage refinance?


As the name implies, refinancing simply means obtaining new financing for something you already own (or partially own, like real estate).  It’s kind of like a balance transfer where you move your loan from one lender to another to get better terms, except it’s a mortgage payoff.of your old mortgage loan for a new mortgage loan. If you currently have a rate of 6% on your mortgage, but see that refinance rates are now 4%, a refinance could make sense and save you a lot of money over time. You’d essentially have the lender pay off your existing loan with a brand-new loan at the lower interest rate. There is also the cash-out refinance, which allows you to tap into your home equity while also changing the rate and term of your existing mortgage. So, if you currently owe $200,000, but your home is worth $500,000, you could potentially take out $100k cash and your new loan amount would be $300,000. Your monthly payments may not even go up if interest rates are favorable, and you’d have that cash to use for whatever you wish. Be sure to use a refinance calculator or payoff calculator to help guide your decision, and consider the loan term, otherwise known as your expected tenure in the property

How much will my housing payment really be?


Like we mentioned in the related question above, be sure to factor in all the elements that go into a mortgage payment, not just the principal and interest payment that you often see advertised.  It’s not enough to look at P&I (Principal & Interest), you have to consider the PITI (Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance). And sometimes even the “A” (Homeowners Association Assessments).  If you don’t consider the full housing payment, including property taxes and homeowners insurance (and maybe even private mortgage insurance) you might do yourself a disservice when it comes to determining how much you can afford during the home financing process. You can check out my mortgage affordability calculator to see where you stand. Whether you have an escrow account or not, mortgage lenders will qualify you by factoring in taxes and insurance, not just your monthly mortgage payment.

When is the first mortgage payment due?


This depends on when you close your home loan and if you pay prepaid interest at  closing.  For example, if you close late in the month, chances are your first mortgage payment will be due in just over 30 days.  Conversely, if you close early in the month, you might not make your first payment for nearly 60 days. That can be nice if you’ve got moving expenses and renovation costs to worry about, or if your checking account is a little light.

What credit score do I need to get approved?


It depends what type of mortgage you’re attempting to get, and also what down payment you have, or if it’s a purchase or a refinance.  The good news is that there are a lot of mortgage programs available for those with low credit scores, including VA loans and FHA mortgages.  For example, the FHA goes as low as 500 FICO, Fannie and Freddie 620, and the USDA and VA don’t technically have a minimum credit score, though most lenders want at least 620/640. If you’re in good shape financially, a poor credit score may not actually be a roadblock. But you can save a lot of money if you have excellent credit via the lower interest rate you receive for being a better borrower. Simply put, loan rates are lower if you’ve got a higher credit score.

How large of a mortgage can I afford?


Here you’ll need to consider home values, how much you make, what your other monthly liabilities are, what you’ve got in your savings account, and what your down payment will be in order to come up with your loan amount. From there, you can calculate your debt-to-income ratio, which is very important in terms of qualifying for a mortgage.  This is a fairly involved process, so it’s tough to just estimate what you can afford or provide some quick calculation. There’s also your comfort level to consider. How much home are you comfortable financing? And don’t forget the property taxes and insurance, as well as routine maintenance costs, which can make your total housing obligations much more expensive!

Do I even qualify for a mortgage?


This is an important question to consider. Are you actually eligible for a mortgage or are you simply wasting your time and the lender’s?  While requirements do vary, most lenders require two years of credit history or clean rental history, and steady employment, along with some assets in the bank. As mentioned, if you are looking to purchase a new home, getting that pre-qualification, or better yet, pre-approval, is a good way to find out if the real thing (a loan application) is worth your while. However, even if you are pre-qualified or pre-approved, things can and do come up that turn a conditional approval into a denial letter, such as an undisclosed credit card, personal loan, auto loan, or pesky student loans. Many lenders will also verify employment and credit and income, prior to loan closing to make sure nothing has changed.  Simply, your loan is not 100% done until it funds.

Why might I be denied a mortgage?


There are probably endless reasons why you could be denied a mortgage, and likely new ones being realized every day. It’s a complicated business, really. With so much money at stake and so much risk to lenders if they don’t do their due diligence, you can bet you’ll be vetted pretty thoroughly.  If anything doesn’t look right, with you or the property, it’s not out of the realm of possibilities to be flat out denied. Those aforementioned undisclosed student loans or credit cards can also come back to bite you, either by limiting how much you can borrow or by pushing your credit scores down below acceptable levels. That doesn’t mean give up, it just means you might have to go back to the drawing board and improve your credit score, reduce some debts, or find a new lender willing to work with you. It also highlights the importance of preparation!

What documents do I need to provide to get a home loan?


In short, a lot of them, from tax returns to pay stubs to bank statements and other financials like a brokerage account if using assets from such a source. This process is becoming less paperwork intensive thanks to new technologies like single source validation, but it’s still quite cumbersome. You’ll also have to sign lots of loan disclosures, credit authorization forms, letters of explanation, and so on.  While it can be frustrating and time consuming, do your best to get any documentation requests back to the lender ASAP to ensure that you will close your home loan on time. And make sure you always send all pages of documents to avoid re-requests.


What type of mortgage should I get?


There are a lot of loan options, including fixed-rate mortgages and adjustable-rate mortgages, along with conventional loans and government loans, such as FHA and VA. While most borrowers just default to the 30-year fixed-rate mortgage loan, there are plenty of other loan programs available, and some may result in significant savings depending on your plans. For example, a 5/1 ARM might come with an interest rate 0.75% below a 30-year fixed, and it’s still fixed for the first five years, adjusting every year thereafter. You might want to start with the fixed-rate versus ARM comparison, then go from there. If you’re comfortable with an ARM, you can explore the many options available. If you know a fixed rate is the only way to go with a home loan, you can determine whether a shorter-term option like the 15-year fixed is in your budget and best interest. Also consider the FHA vs. conventional pros and cons to ensure you’ve covered all your bases if trying to decide between those two loan types.


How big of a down payment do I need?


That depends on a lot of factors, including the purchase price of the home, the type of loan you choose, the property type, the occupancy type, your credit score, and so on. There are still zero down mortgage options available in certain situations, including for USDA and VA loans, and widely available 3% and 3.5% down options as well.  In short, you can still get a mortgage with a relatively small down payment, assuming it’s owner-occupied and not a vacation home or investment property. Just make sure you can afford the higher monthly payments!

Do I need to pay mortgage insurance?


Good question. The answer coincides with down payment and/or existing home equity, along with loan type. Basically, you want to be at or below 80% loan-to-value to avoid mortgage insurance entirely, at least when it comes to a home loan backed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac. That means a 20% down payment or greater when purchasing a home, or 20%+ equity when refinancing a mortgage. However, for a FHA loan, mortgage insurance is unavoidable, regardless of the loan to value.


What are mortgage points? Do I need to pay them?


The choice is yours when it comes to points, though it does depend on how the lender. Are they discount points or a loan origination fee?  Points paid by you, that are for a lender origination fee do not reduce the interest rate. They are a fee to compensate the lender for their cost to originate the mortgage loan. Discount points will reduce the loan interest rate. For every point paid, there is a corresponding reduction in interest rate charged.  Of course, these points can be paid directly and out-of-pocket, or indirectly via a higher mortgage rate and/or rolled into the loan. This is part of the negotiation process, and also your preference.

What closing costs are negotiable?


Closing costs will be fees assessed by and paid to your lender and fees assessed by your lender but paid to a third-party. Many closing costs may be negotiable, including some third-party fees that you can shop for like title insurance. Closing costs refer to fees both paid to the lender as well as fees assessed and paid to a third-party provider.  If you look at your Loan Estimate (LE), and provided settlement Service Provider list, you’ll actually see which services identified which you can shop for. Then there are the loan costs, which you may be able to negotiate with some lenders. In some instances, you may not be charged an outright fee, because it will be built into the rate, which also may be negotiated at times. You have every right to go through each and every fee and ask what it is and why it’s being charged. And the lender should have a reasonable response.


How quickly can I get a mortgage?


This is an easier mortgage question to answer, though it can still vary quite a bit. In general, you might be looking at anywhere from 30 to 45 days for a typical residential mortgage transaction, whether it’s a mortgage refinance or home purchase. Of course, stuff happens, a lot, so it’s not out of the ordinary for the process to take up to 60 days or even longer. At the same time, there are companies (and related technologies) that are trying to whittle the process down to a couple weeks, if not less. So, look forward to that in the future!


Do I really need a 20% down payment to purchase a home?


A. No. There are several other loan options available that allow you to put as little as 5%, 3%, or even 0% down. Just keep in mind that a conventional home loan with less than a 20% down payment typically requires Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI). FHA loans will require mortgage insurance premiums regardless of the down payment. Mortgage Insurance protects the lender from losing money if you end up not being able to pay the loan.

When should I lock in my interest rate?


A. This answer differs depending on whether you’re purchasing or refinancing a home. But of course, either way, you want to obtain the lowest rate possible on such a large amount of money.  If you’re refinancing, your application has to be credit-approved before you can lock in your rate. If you’re shopping for a home, your application has to be credit-approved and the seller has accepted your offer before you can lock in your rate.  Then, you’ll need to decide if you want to lock in today’s rate or keep an eye on rates in the days that follow.  Be sure to understand any fees associated with the rates you see advertised — not all are created equal, so you want to pay attention to the Annual Percentage Rate (APR), not just the interest rate.


How long does my pre-approval last?


A. Pre-approvals on average are good from 60 to 90 days, at which time, if you haven’t put an offer on a home and submitted a loan application, you’ll need to get pre-approved again.

When I purchase a new home, what exactly, are closing costs, and how much should I expect to pay?


A. When you decide to buy a home, you’ll spend more than just your down payment. You’ll also pay for things like recording fees, wire fees, or escrow account, origination fees, upfront insurance premiums and any “points” you buy to lower your interest rate. These expenses are collectively called closing costs, and you can expect them to run you anywhere from 2% to 5% of the purchase price of your home.

What type of mortgage should I choose?


A. This is entirely unique to your financial situation, what you want to buy, how long you plan to live in the home, and more. With options that range from a standard 30-year fixed-rate home loan to an adjustable-rate mortgage that lets you pay less in interest for the first few years, your best bet at finding the right loan is to speak with an expert. Our mortgage loan advisors can spend time understanding your needs and goals to assist you in determining the best loan program for you




Joel Lobb
Mortgage Loan Officer
Individual NMLS ID #57916



Text/call:      502-905-3708
         
email:
          kentuckyloan@gmail.com

 





The Mortgage Process to Close a Mortgage Loan in Kentucky



Start your Application – Your Personal Mortgage Advisor will

collect your documents for income and asset validations along with 2 year work history, pull your credit and go over the report and submit your loan for a mortgage pre-approval letter. Usually can be done less than 1 day as long as you have all income and assets documents (paystubs last 30 days, 2 years taxes, 2 years w-2's, 2 year work history, copies of last two months bank statements and most recent quarterly statement for retirement accounts. 

Home Search – Your Realtor will show you the homes you qualify

for and keep you up-to-date with new listings

Making an offer – Your realtor will write up a purchase contract.

You will need to put down a small deposit, then negotiations

begin.

Contract Negotiations and Contract to Sale – Your Realtor will

negotiate with listing agent and seller. Once the contract is fully

executed your attorney will review the contract.

Scheduling A Home Inspection – This is when you find out if

there is any issues with your home. You and your realtor can be

there.

Acknowledgement of Loan Application – At this point you will

sign your mortgage application and submit any additional documents

requested like paystubs, w-2's, bank statements, updated income and assets 

Appraisal of Property – Your loan officer will schedule with the

appraisal management company to determine the property’s

value.

Title search on Property to verify liens and ownership record and legal description of deed done by closing attorney or title company 

Underwriting – Your loan goes for official review, approval, and

the loan is committed to. The underwriter will review all documents to include appraisal, title work, income and assets documents, credit report, and issue a conditional approval.

Closing Disclosure – Your closing disclosure will come out 3 days

prior to your closing settlement date, which will need to be

signed.

Schedule your Closing Date – Your closing and title work will

be scheduled with your settlement agent

Items for Closing – You will need your certified check.

Closing/Settlement – All mortgage Documents will be signed.

Both your settlement agent and Personal Mortgage Advisor will

review with you.

Moving Time – You receive your keys, enjoy your new home!

Tips to keep your Kentucky Mortgage Loan Pre-Approval Valid until closing

 10 Tips for Mortgage  Loan Applicants Not to After Pre-Approval for a KY Mortgage
 

1. Don’t change jobs or become self-employed. 

2. Don’t buy a car, truck, van, boat or motorhome unless you plan to live in it. 

3. Don’t use your credit cards or let your payments fall behind. 

4. Don’t spend the money you have saved for your down payment. 

5. Don’t buy furniture before you buy your house. 

6. Don’t originate any new inquiries on your credit report. 

7. Don’t make any LARGE or CASH deposits into your bank account. 

8. Don’t change bank accounts. 

9. Don’t co-sign for anyone. 

10. Don’t purchase anything until after the closing. 


Kentucky Mortgage Pre-Approval Checklist of Items Needed for Approval Letter

  1. Bank Statements - Last 2 Months – All bank statements for all accounts from the last 2 months. Include all numbered pages of all bank statements!
  2. Driver's License – Legible state-issued driver's license
  3. Evidence of Insurance – For all properties owned
  4. Federal Tax Returns - Last 2 Years – Last 2 years of federal tax returns to prove income, include all schedules
  5. HOA statement (if applicable) – Most current statement
  6. Loan Application (1003) – Please complete all fields
  7. Mortgage Statement(s) – Most recent for all properties owned
  8. Pay Stubs - Received in Last 30 Days – Last 30 days of pay stubs to prove income
  9. Social Security Card – Legible social security card to prove social security number
  10. W-2s - Last 2 Years – Last 2 years of W-2s to prove income

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Joel Lobb
Mortgage Loan Officer
Individual NMLS ID #57916

American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.

Text/call:      502-905-3708
fax:            502-327-9119
email:
          kentuckyloan@gmail.com

How Much House Can I Afford On A Typical Kentucky Mortgage Loan Preapproval?






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How to determine how much house can you afford


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What is the difference between a Mortgage Pre Approval and Pre Qualification for A Louisville Kentucky Mortgage

Pre Qualification for A Louisville Kentucky Mortgage vs a Pre-Approval for a Louisville Kentucky Mtg.




You have probably heard the terms Pre-Qualificationand Pre-Approval and may have wondered what the difference is. 

Prequalification

When you get prequalified, we will typically run your credit, look at ratios and check assets to make sure there is enough to meet reserve requirements.   Most professional real estate agents won’t even show you homes without a Pre-Qualification letter and in today’s Louisville Kentucky Housing  market you must have one before you submit an offer on any home.  A  Pre-Qualification letter says that you have spoken with a lender and they do not see any immediate concerns with your ability to borrow.  This is not as detailed as a Pre-Approval but will allow you to start the process of viewing homes and submitting an offer on one.

Pre-Approval

With a Louisville Kentucky Mortgage Pre-Approval, we do everything above and also run your file through an automated underwriting system.  We also ask you to send over supporting documents to place in your file.  The supporting documents we typically ask for are:
  • 2 Paystubs
  • 2 Years W-2’s
  • 2 Months of Asset Statements
  • Driver’s License
  • Signed Authorization Form
Everyone’s situation is different, so we may need additional documents.  Once we have had time to review all of your documents, you are pre-approved subject to you finding a property, appraisal, clear title and an underwriter’s final approval.  In today’s fast-moving market with foreclosures being snatched up quickly it is advantageous to go ahead and get Pre-Approved if you are serious about purchasing a home now and want to stack the odds in your favor.







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Qualifying For a Kentucky Mortgage, Mortgage Rates, Down Payment


Qualifying For a Kentucky Mortgage, Mortgage Rates, Down Payment

A basic truth: A loan holds your house and land as collateral; it's not pound of flesh, but the loss can seem just as life-threatening.
In most cases, a lender does not really want to end up with your house. They want you to succeed and make those monthly payments that make the world (or at least the U.S. world) go 'round. So when you apply for a loan, the lender will scrutinize your financial situation to make sure you are worth the risk.
You need to get your paperwork in order before you find a Kentucky Mortgage  lender, but first you should understand the basic facts.
  • Down payment. Traditionally, lenders like a down payment that is 20 percent of the value of the home. However, there are many types of Kentucky mortgages that require less. Beware, though: If you are putting less down, your lender will scrutinize you even more. Why? Because the less you have invested in the home, the less you have to lose by just walking away from the loan. If you cannot put 20 percent down, your lender will require private mortgage insurance (PMI) to protect himself from losses. (However, if you can only afford, for example, 5 percent down, but have good credit, you can still get a loan, and even avoid paying PMI. Ask your lender about an 80/15/5 loan — an 80 percent first mortgage, followed by a 15 percent second mortgage, and 5 percent down. This gives the lender more security, while saving you the cost of insurance.)

  • LTV. Lenders look at the Loan to Value (LTV) when underwriting the loan. Divide your loan amount by the home's appraised value to come up with the LTV. For example, if your loan is $70,000, and the home you are buying is appraised at $100,000, your LTV is 70%. The 30 percent down payment makes that a fairly low LTV. But even if your LTV is 95 percent you can still get a loan, most likely for a higher interest rate.

  • Debt ratios. There are two debt-to-income ratios that you need to consider. First, look at your housing ratio (sometimes called the "front-end ratio"); this is your anticipated monthly house payment plus other costs of homeownership (e.g., condo fees, etc.). Divide that amount by your gross monthly income. That gives you one part of what you need. The other is the debt ratio (or "back-end ratio"). Take all your monthly installment or revolving debt (e.g., credit cards, student loans, alimony, child support) in addition to your housing expenses. Divide that by your gross income as well. Now you have your debt ratios: Generally, it should be no more than 28 percent of your gross monthly income for the front ratio, and 36 percent for the back, but the guidelines vary widely. A high income borrower might be able to have ratios closer to 40 percent and 50 percent.

  • Credit report. A lender will run a credit report on you; this record of your credit history will result in a score. Your lender will probably look at three credit scoring models (one for home equity loans or lines of credit) and then average them to arrive at your score. The higher the score, the better the chance the borrower will pay off the loan. What's a good score? Well, FICO (acronym for Fair Isaac Corporation, the company that invented the model) is usually the standard; scores range from 350-850. FICO's median score is 723, and 680 and over is generally the minimum score for getting "A" credit loans. Lenders treat the scores in different ways, but in general the higher the score, the better interest rate you'll be offered. The minimum credit score a Kentucky USDA loan is 640 and for a Kentucky VA loan it is 620 credit score.  The minimum credit score for a Kentucky  FHA loan is 640 

  • Automated Underwriting System. The days when a lender would sit down with you to go over your loan are over. Today you can find out if you qualify for a loan quickly via an automated underwriting system, a software program that looks at things like your credit score and debt ratios. Most lenders use an AUS to pre-approve a borrower. You still need to provide some information, but the system takes your word for most of it. Later on, you'll have to provide more proof that what you gave the AUS is correct.




Can Your Afford a Kentucky Mortgage Loan?

Whether you're a Kentucky first-time buyer looking for the perfect starter house, or a seasoned pro trading up to your waterfront dream home, you are probably asking the same questions: Can I afford this? And is this the right move at the right time?
Of course, you can use a mortgage calculator and ask the experts — lenders, agents, and mom — but the reality is that you are the only one who truly knows whether you can afford to buy right now. And, painful as it is, what you need to start with is a detailed expense breakdown. Analyze what you spend — at least get a full month's snapshot. You'll see where you may have wiggle room in your budget and what you can afford for housing. (Be sure to count all those little incidental expenses like dry cleaning and yes, those mid-afternoon Starbucks lattes count in the budget, too!)

Sample Budget

This sample budget belongs to a single, 35-year-old woman making $68,000 per year, renting a two-bedroom apartment. Her monthly pre-tax income is $5,667.

Monthly expenses:

Rent$1,600
Car payment$225
Credit card payments$200
Car insurance$75
Groceries$400
Health insurance/renters insurance$208
Electricity$40
Natural gas$70
Cell phone$49
Home phone + Internet access$72
Cable TV$50
Gas, dining, clothes, dry cleaning, gifts, other expenses$800
Memberships (gym, professional, etc.)$100
Water/sewer/garbage$0
Property tax/homeowners insurance/condo fees$0
Alarm company$0
Lawn$0
Total$3,889
The sample budget may not look like your expense snapshot, but by adding and subtracting your personal budget items with an eye toward true monthly out-of-pocket totals, you get a pretty good picture. Now, add in all of the expenses where the zeros are as well as the increased cost of your monthly mortgage payment (formerly rent). Maintenance costs like condo fees, utilities, the leaky bathroom sink that defies a simple trip to Home Depot to fix, property taxes, closing costs, and furniture for your new home all add to the bottom line.

Debt-to-Income Ratios

If you figure out that you can afford your projected budget, chances are you'll qualify for a mortgage in your range. Lenders will determine how much loan you can afford by using something called your debt-to-income ratio, which is the ratio of a borrower's total debt as a percentage of their total gross income. Basically, they will look at what's left in your budget after your monthly bills are paid. These include credit card payments, car payments, child support, etc.
  • Housing ratio (or "front-end ratio"): Lenders want your total mortgage debt (called PITI — an acronym for Principal, Interest, Taxes, and Insurance) and condo fees to be no more than 30 percent of your gross monthly income; 28 percent is standard.
  • Overall debt ratio (or "back-end ratio"): These are revolving monthly payments, such as credit card, car lease, or loan payments, student loans, child support, alimony, monthly utilities. (They do not include those lattes, but you might want to plug in your lifestyle expenses for your own sake.) The ratio should not be more than 36 percent.
Debt-to-income ratio standards differ from lender to lender, and vary based on your loan program, but most lenders will give more weight to your credit history as a factor in determining your particular situation. Here is a typical ratio for a first-time buyer:
Monthly gross household income:
$5,700
Mortgage debt ratio:
28% $1,596.0
Expenses and overall debt:
36% $2,052.0
The mortgage debt of $1,596 is right in line with the current monthly rent payment in the example above. As long as the monthly debt obligations and household expenses are no higher than $2,000-2,300, this borrower should have no problem qualifying.
If your credit is stellar, you will be rewarded. Lenders may stretch these ratios to 38/45, allowing you to purchase more home and take advantage of more lending programs. And if you are a Kentucky first-time home-buyer applying for an Kentucky FHA or VA loan, you may also be able to qualify with a higher back-end ratio — up to 41 percent of your monthly gross income — and get approved for these federally-insured loans.

How It Works

So, back to the question: How much home can I afford?
Keeping in mind the variables on debt-to-income ratios and the many lending programs available, here is a sample breakdown for a mid-range home.
Monthly gross household income (pre-tax):$7,000
Mortgage debt ratio28%$1,960
Home price$350,000
20% down payment$70,000
Mortgage$280,000
Interest rate on 30-year mortgage6.33%
Mortgage payment (principle and interest)$1,739
Here is an example of a lower price-range home, purchased with the same loan terms and interest rate:
Monthly gross household income (pre-tax):$3,600
Mortgage debt ratio28%$1,008
Home price$150,000
Mortgage payment (principle and interest)$1,739
10% down payment$15,000
Mortgage$135,000
Interest rate on 30-year mortgage6.33%
Mortgage payment (P&I)$838

And the Other Costs...

In addition to the monthly mortgage payment, remember to factor in the added costs of home purchase and ownership. Since this buyer above did not put 20 percent down, he will need to add mortgage insurance, also known as PMI, to his monthly payment. PMI protects lenders against losses that can occur when a borrower defaults on a loan, and is required for borrowers with a down payment of less than 20 percent of the purchase price. Buyers also incur closing costs of 2.5 to 3 percent of the total loan amount. This covers the cost of title searches, appraisals, legal fees, etc.
So what's left to apply to the down payment? Using the example above, our first-time buyer has $15,000 for the down payment on a $150,000 home, and the closing costs may come to $4,500. The mortgage total just increased to $139,500. Over the 30-year loan period, this brings the mortgage payment to approximately $866 per month. If your head is not already spinning, now tack on mortgage insurance (fees vary based on the loan), homeowners' taxes and condo fees (if applicable), bringing the total monthly payment to approximately $1,038. The good news is this is still well in the range of the acceptable debt ratio.

Keep Some Money in Reserve

Many buyers invest every red cent they have into their new purchase, but it's a good idea to keep some emergency cash, or "leaky faucet money," aside in the event of emergency repairs or a job loss. So don't completely raid your savings; with home ownership, expect the unexpected.




Joel Lobb (NMLS#57916)Senior  Loan Officer
502-905-3708 cell
502-813-2795 fax
jlobb@keyfinllc.com

Key Financial Mortgage Co. (NMLS #1800)*
107 South Hurstbourne Parkway*
Louisville, KY 40222*





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